Crazy Trip: Day 4: Paris to Rome
My day started very early today. Actually, I was not able to sleep with all the excitement. Woke up at about 4:00 am, freshened up, dressed up, the bags were already packed, took them and went out in the cold. It was still dark out there. My flight to Rome Ciampino was at 9:15 am, and as the shuttle company mentioned, I should reach Porte Malliot by 6 am (3 hours before the flight). I have to take two buses to reach Porte Malliot from Bagnolet (where the Hotel was), hence I was out so early. I walked to the bus stop where a night bus till Gare De Lyon was supposed to come, which eventually didn’t; looks like the bus system in Paris is not as reliable as the metro services. Took the next noctilien bus N34 to reach Gare De Lyon. Once there I was confused as to from which platform I will get the next bus, asked someone, and then ran to catch the N11 bus till Porte Malliot – Palais Des Congres. The night journey was interesting, after all it was the city of lights. Reached the shuttle bus stand by 6 am, took tickets and boarded the bus to Beauvis airport.
The Beauvis aiport, though small, has two terminals. My flight was from terminal B; another old couple were asking me about the terminal in some foreign language, I checked and directed them to terminal B since the language seemed Spanish. While check in, there was trouble with my bag weight, after a little fight, I carried my camera on my shoulder and the bag was 10 KGs (yes, with the 70-300 lens, my camera is more than a kilo in weight). Once Inside I had a chicken sandwich for breakfast, and cursed myself for that, it was cold and tasteless. Finished that off reluctantly and then went shopping. A metal model of Sacre Couer caught my eye, and in no time it was inside my pocket (of course I paid for it). Then, a Armani code and three glass Eiffel towers (filled with bonbons) went inside my bag. I found the souvenirs here cheaper than the Eiffel Tower “Official” shop, though the collection was less.
First view of Rome was not so amazing, same as Paris, maybe the roads to small airports are not that greatly decorated. But Rome seemed more crowded (or it was the weather that made people stay out). The bus reached Termini station by 1 pm, and my first destination was the tourist office where I will buy the Roma Pass. Let me tell you that Roma Pass is excellent value for money; it offers first two museums free and next all at reduced rates, plus all transport is included. One Roma Pass is valid for 3 days from the first time it was used. Also, many sites have different queues for Roma Pass, hence you get priority entry. Overall, if you are in Rome, have a Roma Pass. Roma Pass is not sold online, though all information about it is available. The tourist office was inside the Termini station beside platform 24 (address: 34, Via Giovanni Giolitti), found it easily and bought three Roma Passes. Didn’t I tell you two of my best friends were coming tomorrow? J
The dorm was nice, just 4 beds, no bunk beds, clean and arranged nicely. I took the corner bed which was not aligned with the other three beds. This hotel is actually a big apartment, some parts of which are converted into hotel. In some floors permanent residents stay (the post boxes in the ground floor told me that). And that is why there is no attached bathroom, each section has two bathrooms, pretty much ample; I never found them occupied anytime during my stay. After quickly freshening up, I was out. First stop was Castle Saint Angelo. I took Metro line A till Lepanto. Lunch was a chicken calzone from a roadside restaurant, it was hard, but tasty, and left my cheek bones sore after I finished it.
Reached the castle after escaping a car accident by inches. It wasn’t my fault, the sign said pedestrian crossing but this old lady was zipping through and screeched to a halt when I was middle of the road. Well, bad words don’t come to my mouth so often, but this time it did! And she just shrugged her shoulders, looks like Romans are not too caring about traffic rules. After walking though the trench of the castle, I reached the gates. With Roma Pass, tickets were free. Castle Saint Angelo is originally the tomb of Roman Emperor Hadrian (yes the Hadrian’s Wall fame), and later used as Pope’s residence when he needed to secure himself and hence there is a secret (not anymore) passage from here till St. Peters Basilica. This was my first stop of the Angels and Demons trail, in the book (and the movie) this was the place which served as Illuminati lair and where the cardinals were imprisoned. Yes since it is a castle, there are many places where you can imprison someone, and of course there is the path directly into Vatican. The name Saint Angelo derives from a statue of an angel by Raffaello which was on top of the tomb. Later, it fell down and now rests in the courtyard, on top there is a bronze replacement.
It was about 7 pm, and I needed to retreat. Called home from there and then took the metro from the Spagna stop till Termini. But an important thing was yet to be completed … dinner! It was a tough job figuring out what to eat when you are alone. I thought I will settle for a panini, but then those are for breakfast. After roaming from restaurant to restaurant, I finally entered into one, and did the biggest mistake of the whole tour, ordered a sea-food spaghetti! I wanted chicken, but there was no chicken in the restaurant, hence ordered sea-food and soon after ordering I understood it was a mistake. When it came, as expected it looked fabulous with all the clams and oysters and what not. It was a hard time finding the actual thing to eat amidst all those shells. I think I struggled for one whole hour with the dish. The only good thing about the dish was a whole prawn in the middle. I never ate so many creatures of the deep in one plate and I will never again. When I told Mom about it, she said “They should have removed the shells at least!” So much for the shells. And another tip, never order water in Rome, it is as costly as a glass of wine, hence order wine instead.
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| Restaurant inside Castle St. Angelo |
The flight was 2 hrs long, got a window seat and enjoyed the awesome view of the Alps from top; really amazing and once in a lifetime view. The clear weather helped a lot. On board also, I bought a CK perfume set; me and perfumes: unbreakable combination. The flight landed on time; Rome Ciampino airport is also small one (that is why Ryanair flights are so cheap, you know). Then I boarded the infamous Terravision bus. Well, infamous because there are many bad reviews about their service (which I discovered after paying for the return ticket online!). To tell the truth, it was not that bad after all, all the incidents with Terravision (lost bag, late bus) can be blamed on the huge number of tourists that come during the summers. So, my advice, come to Rome during autumn, you will have less crowds and the weather is pleasant too.
First view of Rome was not so amazing, same as Paris, maybe the roads to small airports are not that greatly decorated. But Rome seemed more crowded (or it was the weather that made people stay out). The bus reached Termini station by 1 pm, and my first destination was the tourist office where I will buy the Roma Pass. Let me tell you that Roma Pass is excellent value for money; it offers first two museums free and next all at reduced rates, plus all transport is included. One Roma Pass is valid for 3 days from the first time it was used. Also, many sites have different queues for Roma Pass, hence you get priority entry. Overall, if you are in Rome, have a Roma Pass. Roma Pass is not sold online, though all information about it is available. The tourist office was inside the Termini station beside platform 24 (address: 34, Via Giovanni Giolitti), found it easily and bought three Roma Passes. Didn’t I tell you two of my best friends were coming tomorrow? J
The next stop was Hotel Papa Germano. There is a history behind this hotel too. We searched in Expedia and the hotel was 320 Euros for three nights for three of us without breakfast, and we checked on their own site, it was just 240 Euros for three nights for three of us including breakfast! Shame Expedia! We had booked from Expedia since it was required for my friend’s visa, and later cancelled. The Hotel desk actually called and checked if we required two rooms, how nice of them. Found the Hotel with a little help from GPS and Google, it is not very close to Termini as such. The receptionist was away for lunch but arrived soon, and she knew that we have a three bed room booked from tomorrow, and tonight I was staying in a dorm.
The walk to Metro A stop is long from Termini, you will go through various labyrinths and Metro C development work made the underground look like a disaster-struck place. Just followed the Red markings (Blue markings for line B) and I was there. Metro ride was ok, not very much crowded, but everyone was staring at me since I was eating (maybe food is not allowed, but I did not see any signs). Anyway, I ate along. My stop was Lepanto, from there I planned to walk till the castle. The weather was nice, warm and sunny. It was my first walk in Europe where I was alone, and it felt nice. Went through a piazza with a fountain. Every square or circle in Italy is called a Piazza, and mostly will have a fountain. Most piazza’s are circular. The houses look pretty old, mostly pastel coloured, not sure why because it is warm here anyway, but it gives an old look to the city. The shuttered windows is another thing which keeps the city old. All houses have shuttered windows. Overall, a nice city to walk about.
Reached the castle after escaping a car accident by inches. It wasn’t my fault, the sign said pedestrian crossing but this old lady was zipping through and screeched to a halt when I was middle of the road. Well, bad words don’t come to my mouth so often, but this time it did! And she just shrugged her shoulders, looks like Romans are not too caring about traffic rules. After walking though the trench of the castle, I reached the gates. With Roma Pass, tickets were free. Castle Saint Angelo is originally the tomb of Roman Emperor Hadrian (yes the Hadrian’s Wall fame), and later used as Pope’s residence when he needed to secure himself and hence there is a secret (not anymore) passage from here till St. Peters Basilica. This was my first stop of the Angels and Demons trail, in the book (and the movie) this was the place which served as Illuminati lair and where the cardinals were imprisoned. Yes since it is a castle, there are many places where you can imprison someone, and of course there is the path directly into Vatican. The name Saint Angelo derives from a statue of an angel by Raffaello which was on top of the tomb. Later, it fell down and now rests in the courtyard, on top there is a bronze replacement.
Spent a lot of time here, roaming through the helicoidal ramp to enter into the tomb, then visited the rooms used by Popes over the years, lavishly decorated by frescos. There was an exhibition of altarpieces from Russia too. Then, made my way out, over the bridge of the Hadrian over river Tiber. There is not much of the river though, very dirty and almost dying. The bridge is adorned by ten angels each holding instruments of passion. This bridge is also historic and completed in about 134 AD almost same time as the castle itself.
My next destination was Piazza del Popolo which was about 1.5 KM away, hence I bought myself a gelato. If you are in Italy, you can’t escape gelato. The walk was pleasant. And without knowing I reached Piazza Navona. Well, I was taken aback by the beauty of it and also the paintings and the crowd, but it was not in my list for today. I slowly found myself on the road to Popolo. The walk though the cobbled streets has its own beauty, especially when you are alone, no one to talk to and you can admire the city more effectively. Well, having a companion helps since you can discuss the things, but I was not complaining, since it was only for one day.
The first thing that you will notice about Piazza del Popolo is its vastness, and the second thing the presence of a huge Obelisk at its centre. No doubt both Roman and Egyptian civilizations were great and contemporary hence the exchange of art and architecture. And when there is Obelisk, there has to be Tutankhamen; a man (or woman) dressed as the Mummy was posing (begging actually). Then there was a lady trying to imitate Michael Jackson, and there were these people pushing roses to tourists. Many things happening at the same place at the same time. After absorbing the mood of the Piazza for a few minutes, I made my way to the Church.
Santa Maria Del Popolo was my first church in Rome and it left me spellbound. Though the church was decorated differently due to a wedding (lucky couple), but the interiors were just amazing, and as I realized over the next three days, this was just a start. The frescos were pure works of art and amazing, specially the dome which is decorated by Raphael’s Creation of the World. It was very high though and not very clear in the low evening light. My point of interest was the Chigi Chapel which is my second stop in the Path to illumination according to Dan Brown.
It was late evening when I was outside and the cold was setting in. Morning weather was pretty deceiving and now the winds were chilly. I hurried to me next stop which was the Spanish Steps. It was about 600 metres from here and I walked the road of fashion. All big brands were there, Armani, Armani Exchange, Dior, Chanel, what not! None of them were in my reach though, maybe next time when I win a jackpot!
The Spanish Steps are a just a few flights of steps connecting the Piazza di Spagna to the Trinita dei Monti church. And boy, it was popular. Almost every couple in the city was here and so were the rose-sellers. The steps were white in colour and the church on top was white too; I could imagine how beautiful it would look in a full moon night. But right now, it was very crowded and all I was caring about were my belongings. The Trinita dei Monti church was another church with amazing frescos. It was quite empty inside the church and hence soothing. After admiring the Assumption of the Virgin, I quietly made my way outside.
It was about 7 pm, and I needed to retreat. Called home from there and then took the metro from the Spagna stop till Termini. But an important thing was yet to be completed … dinner! It was a tough job figuring out what to eat when you are alone. I thought I will settle for a panini, but then those are for breakfast. After roaming from restaurant to restaurant, I finally entered into one, and did the biggest mistake of the whole tour, ordered a sea-food spaghetti! I wanted chicken, but there was no chicken in the restaurant, hence ordered sea-food and soon after ordering I understood it was a mistake. When it came, as expected it looked fabulous with all the clams and oysters and what not. It was a hard time finding the actual thing to eat amidst all those shells. I think I struggled for one whole hour with the dish. The only good thing about the dish was a whole prawn in the middle. I never ate so many creatures of the deep in one plate and I will never again. When I told Mom about it, she said “They should have removed the shells at least!” So much for the shells. And another tip, never order water in Rome, it is as costly as a glass of wine, hence order wine instead.
Back to my room with a bad taste in my mouth, I opened up a chocolate bar that I brought as a gift for Ach, and ate it completely. I made sure I don’t burp, and had lots of water before hitting the bed. Lesson learnt, chicken is the best!
Cash register:
- Bus from Termini: 4 Euros
- Hotel: 28 Euros
- Rome Tax: 2 Euros
- Roma pass: 25 Euros
- Calzone and drink: 4.50 Euros
- Gelato: 3 Euros
- Ugly dinner: 11 Euros
PS: It is past 12 am, and hence I will post the pictures when I am more sane!
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