Kolkata is in Kolkata

As the morning mist cleared off and I could see the huge steel structure looming in the background, I smelt the air and was overwhelmed by the similarity of the air as it was 5 years back. It is not that I am returning to Kolkata after many years, but it is the sameness after 5 long years that has amazed me. As I walked down the footbridge lounging my heavy luggage into platforms 1-14 of the Howrah station, the same sight dawned on me, lots of people hurrying and running and walking and shouting, though it is just 6 am of a January morning. It surely hasn’t changed.

This two weeks I spent at my home (which is near Kolkata, in the suburbs), I spent a lot more of my thoughts to the city as a whole. Really, as Vir Sanghvi said, the city grows on you. I have spent just 4 years of my life near it (though I was and am a regular visitor), I have so much of Kolkata inside me that I cannot do away with it ever. I guess every other Indian metropolis will snob saying that it is a multi-cultural city, but Kolkata is definitely a Bengali city and you will find everyone accepting it that way. It is Bengali in everything, the heart and soul of the city is Bengali. Whoever comes from outside, instead of blending in their culture, they blend themselves in this culture; be it the Chinese of Tangra or the Marwaris of Burrabazar. Everyone driving a car frets over the street parking, yet given a chance the same person will park on the streets. The same person shouts on the pedestrians for not using the footpath, and the same person walks on the roads given a chance. The same pedestrian claims he/she walks on roads since the footpaths are occupied by the shops, again the same pedestrian will feel the eternal joy of getting cheap but quality things from the shops on the footpaths. We see things, shout, and that’s it, we do nothing to change those things. Such is the Bengali way.

I have walked the streets since long and I can definitely say you cannot get better and cheaper (it is AND) street food anywhere else. You cannot get better deals than the shops in Burrabazar, Bowbazaar, and the other numerous old markets in the city. Yes, the recent price rise has affected a bit, but then where will you get the awesome Mughlai parathas at Rs. 25/-! In Bangalore I get 2 piece littis for Rs. 25/-, that too in a shop where you can hardly sit and eat.

Yes, Kolkata has notorious traffic, but then which city hasn’t! But the waterway provides a great relief, I think the waterways on Hooghly eases the traffic a lot, and at that price they are doing a great job. Even the trams have improved a lot, all tram lines are now concrete based, so gone are the days of those black fire bricks which provided a bumpy ride to everyone else. And let me tell you, the trams are the best ride you can get when on a date here. They are slow and not crowded most of the times. The other thing that has changed a bit are the local trains. We have newly designed coaches now which are fully steel inside and has more provision of air-flow thus making the ride comfortable. Though not all trains have new coaches, but I guess a start was necessary.

Like I updated on my FB status, the city looks great at night, a drive on the roads of Tollygange, Park Street and the likes at about midnight is an amazing feeling. The traffic is nil, the yellow light from the halogens provide a dreamy atmosphere and when you reach the shores of the river, it gets better and better. Super awesome, experience of a lifetime.

Then there was this Book Fair. One of the many things that make Kolkata, Kolkata. This fair is again one of the many festivals that Bengali’s have. With free entry this time, the crowd was crazy. Millions of people visited the fair, most of them not to buy books, but just for an outing, eat, and enjoy. I think the most sold thing was the Mutton Biriyani! And this time you had better facilities, huge car park, toilets at stone’s throw from one another. The new place is best suited for use in all the 100s fairs that happen in Kolkata during the winter. With dishes ranging from fish finger to Gobindabhog chaler Khichuri, you can’t be disappointed. And with stalls from Income Tax Department, most popular TV channels and newspapers, no doubt it was entertainment and information galore.

Yes, a few things have changed about Kolkata, but I think still it’s true essence is intact. I haven’t seen anyone fretting like they do in Bangalore (except we only complain about lot of migrants, but actually never do anything about them). All are welcome in Kolkata, there is no language police in Kolkata, actually the language is so sweet and easy, you will anyway learn it in a few days. Idly and Dosa are the two most popular food items there (when will Mughlai paratha be available here in Bangalore @ Rs 25/- of course!). Yes, there is more traffic now, more buses, more cars, more Bangadeshis. Yes, the streets are not clean, the footpaths are occupied, the houses are old. But, yes the people are same, sweet and helpful as always. It is like the person you love the most, with all the problems and inconsistencies and discrepancies, I still love Kolkata, my city!