The Green Trails

Finally, the long awaited trip happened. It has been more than a year that the four of us were out together, exploring India in our own ways, taking a break from Bangalore. The monsoons were coming nearer and we had to decide on the place quickly. Though I guess all of us are bored of hills, trekking and waterfalls but then this place looked quite promising. The decision was made within 3 days, and on 5^th June, 2010 we started our journey towards Kemmannagundi.

We hired an Indica as usual, and started off at about 7 am on the Saturday. We will be going via Chikkamagalur which is about 200 KMs from Bangalore (via NH-48), then Kemmannagundi is about 50 KMs from Chikkamagalur. The journey was quite ok, except for an accident that we witnessed. The accident happened seconds before we reach there. But, thank God, no one was seriously injured. We spent some time helping the people, then once the police took in charge (which they did quite soon!), we carried on our journey.

Chikkamagalur town was not that promising. A small town with lots of people and unmanaged vehicles, the Western Ghats were very far, so not much beauty around. We did not have any accommodation booked at Kemmannagundi, so we thought we will get something here, but decided that we will try our luck at Kemmannagundi.

The 53 Km journey from Chikkamagalur to Kemmannagundi was quite scenic. The Western Ghats started and everything was green everywhere. The day was so far good, lots of clouds to cover the sun, but no rain, so no problem for travel or photography. The road was not that good after some time. It criss-crossed the hills but provided a great view. On the way, we missed a turn and ended up going to Bababudangiri, which we didn’t intend to. Had our small lunch there at a local hotel, not great food, but the weather and the view made for the losses.

Bababudangiri is a pilgrimage for both Hindus and Muslims. For the first time I saw Muslims breaking coconuts here. A unique thing to see. After lunch, we went further ahead to Manikya Dhara, which is a small natural lake on top of a hill. The view from there was awesome. After good photography of the monsoon clouds and little bit of trek, and we were back to our car, and headed off towards Kemmannagundi.

We reached Kemmannagundi at about 4 pm and our first priority was accommodation. There is no hotel or lodge except the one run by the Horticulture Department and we knew it was full! But, the place was great. After many days we been to such a place which has not been commercialized and hence there were very less people. Overall, a great place for some adventure outing. I wished we had tents ourselves then there would have been no problem at all (except for the leeches). After waiting for about 20 minutes and a bit of pleading in broken Kannada, we got a room not in the lodge, but in the dormitory. The room was quite repulsive, but beggars cannot be choosers. My advice to all reading this, please book before you go even if you had to postpone the travel, the rooms in the lodge and the dormitory are awesome (by the looks of it!). Hence, you will enjoy more if you have a nice place to stay.

After the night’s rest was final, we looked at the place around and the feelings were great. We could actually see the rains coming from a distance, and the view was great. The small place has only this guest house run by the Horticulture Department, and a few huts here and there., nothing else. Good that there was electricity. The whole place was green and the weather made it even more beautiful. Yes, you need to be careful about the leeches, so carrying salt and some antiseptic is necessary. Other than that a torch, few mosquito coils and candles are also necessary. If you really want an adventure outing, this is the place. And you don’t have to climb too high or walk long distance or enter dense forests. Without power and mobile signals, there is nothing much that you can do, except chat. After a brief evening stroll, and low-light photography, we settled in for a long chat at the restaurant there at the guest houses. Separate Veg and non-veg restaurants are there. They are ok, but seemed very badly managed. Also, their charges were quite high, then you can’t complain since there is hardly anything else nearby (except bread-omlette from the small tea stalls).

After waiting long time for dinner, and finally having it, we retired for the day. We felt ourselves lucky as we saw many people running here n there for rooms, and then deciding to spend the night in their vehicles. Then, going to sleep with all the sounds of the jungle, the crickets, the frogs, and all the other known or unknown insects and birds, and the falling rain, was an experience in itself.

If the evening was awesome, the morning was spell-bounding. We woke up at about 5:30 am, keeping the night’s trouble of mosquitoes, thieves and power-cut, and we were welcomed by a misty morning. We hurried towards about 3 km trek to Z-point. Four of us got separated in two groups, while the photographer duo reached Z-point, Anirban and me reached a different point. The hills of Kemmannagundi are of two types, ones covered with trees, others covered with long grass. The trek through the jungle was great, though some monkeys scared us, but the sounds of unknown birds made up for that. As we climbed further up, the wind got stronger and more humid. The view from the top was breathtaking. We could actually see the clouds approaching us and wetting us. At, one point we could see far away and at the next moment we could even see a few meters away, the cloud would have covered us. The best part was that there was no one around!

After the trek downhill, we had some breakfast and then had a refreshing bath in the chilly waters. By 11 am, we checked out. The rent was Rs. 600/- for the night, a bit high given the facilities provided, but again we were beggars! Our next destination was the Hebbe falls. Just a few KMs down Kemmannagundi, the jeeps which drop till Hebbe falls were available. The charges were Rs. 750/- for 6 people for 1.5 hours wait there, any extra person or extra hour will add Rs. 100/- to the cost. Quite costly, but once you are on the jeep, you won’t regret it! The road, sorry, there is no road at all! The road was quite bumpy and will surely make you feel that only those old, half-working jeeps would have survived the ordeal. We laughed like anything and enjoyed every bit of the ride. Some people were trekking, well, if you have the time and the energy, you can do that as well. Just keep clear of the incoming jeeps!

You need to walk about 1 KM from where the jeep dropped you to reach the falls. And the falls is great. It is 250 feet falling height, and the place is quite dangerous. Though a lot of people were bathing, but sure the place is not safe it there was more water. We were not in the mood to bath, so just went on clicking pictures. But, guess the guys should learn some dress sense, out of about 50 odd people, only one was wearing a swimming trunk, and the rest were in their underwear! A strict no-no for ladies J. Overall, a nice falls, but not really great one.

After the bumpy ride back, we had our lunch. Again, the people at the restaurant were quite un-professional, and we waited long for our food. It seemed as though the actual workers were sleeping at home, while few fill-ins were working out here.

After lunch, we headed to Kalahatti falls. I had hurt my knee badly after slipping on the stones near Hebbe falls, so I just stayed put nearby. The Kalahatti Falls has a temple at its base, and the falls are about 150 feet in height. The temple was closed by the time we reached and the falls were not that promising. Maybe after the rains it will be better, but definitely not a must see.

Thus, the green tour was over, and we were back on the road to Bangalore. This time we took it via Birur (NH-206) and the road was much better. The sky was awesome and the weather was lovely. No trouble getting back to Bangalore by 10 pm. And the monsoon rains in Bangalore welcomed us all.

Thanks to Ach and Raja for the pics.